Progress Shots – Cab

One of the interesting things about working on a project this massive is the amount of multi-tasking you do. I often talk to my wife about the truck and she thinks I am “crazy” for taking on a project like this. However, the way I view the challenge is not unlike how I work in my daily working world.

In IT we are often tasked with a multitude of problems that all need to be addressed in very short time frames…. in the working world today this referred to as multi-tasking. On the truck, I approach problems in the same way… I divide them out in my head into bodies of work (not unlike a map that has states). I then process these bodies of work through my brain constantly readdressing them by a virtual filing cabinet of folders (or states, sorry for the mixed analogy). I look at each folder and think about what is the next “to do” in that folder…. then let my hands do the work. Many guys who restore cars start a project hoping to be done in a year and the car is still sitting there 10 years later. These are the guys that work in serial and have no ability to work in parallel.

Below are some shots from one of the many projects… gutting the cab and beginning the re-wire of the complete truck.

Before:

After:

Below is the worst bit of rust I have found on the truck body panels so far

 

Progress Shots – Rear Frame Before

The following are the before pictures for the rear frame. I will be starting this part of the project this week, hopefully done by the end of October.

Before:

Progress Shots – Front Frame

The front of the frame is near completion. I am waiting on some bushings from Denver Spring (this company moves at glacier speed). All of the parts had varying degrees of old paint and rust on them. To prep everything I did the following:

Small parts:

• Soaked all small parts in carb. cleaner and wire brushed off all the grease and paint
• Soaked all small parts in evaporust a rust removal product… the parts came out looking brand new.
• Cleaned with a metal cleaning agent. (Marine Clean)
• Etched the metal with a metal etching/rust removal product. (Metal Ready)
• Painted with a very strong metal protectant paint product. (Por15)

Frame:

• Stripped paint with an environmentally friendly paint stripper.
• Wire brushed the entire frame with a combination of grinder wire wheel and wire brush on a drill to remove rust.
• Cleaned with a metal cleaning agent. (Marine Clean)
• Etched the metal with a metal etching/rust removal product. (Metal Ready)
• Painted with a very strong metal protectant paint product. (Por15)

Before:

– As you can see the frame and suspension parts are slimed to the max with all sorts of grease, oil, and all around gunk.


– A shot of the frame after stripping the paint and gunk with an environmentally friendly paint stripper.

– A shot of the front axle stripped the same way as above.

– Photos after hitting it with the wire wheel and prepping it for paint… notice, no rust.

Again, its amazing what a good rust removal agent will do. I wish I had before pictures of these as they were pretty rusty.

After:

These shots are the frame and suspension 90% back together. It is hard to notice it, but all those little parts in the pictures above are re-installed on the frame and holding up the suspension parts… all painted up.

Disc Brake Upgrade

Parts list update for those interested:

From NAPA

2 Metric Monte Carlo calipers

From American Classic Truck Parts (http://www.americanclassic.com)

Part #: BR2918 – Power brake booster kit, new frame mounted pedal, front disc and rear drum brakes, includes power brake booster, dual master cylinder, new frame mounted pedal & bracket, proportioning valve, hardware.

From Speedway Motors (http://www.speedwaymotors.com)

Qty           SKU                           Description
2               8351700764            DISC HAT, 1.41″ OFFSET
2               91031906                 ROTOR GM.81×11.75 8on7″THRU
2               8352300233           ROTOR/HAT BOLTS 5/16 UNC(8
2               91031892-3 19″      BRAKE LINE W/90* END
1               6174129 3/8-24      FEM TO #3 BRAKE FI
1               6172950                   10MM-1.50 TO AN3 BANJO KIT
2              91641009                 METRIC CALIPER BRACKET,FLAT
2              8352300542            SLIDE BOLT, GM CALIPER

I also ordered a few residual valves, brake lines and assorted stuff from these guys. You’ll have to come up with a short list on what you need.

TO NOTE: The brake pedal, pedal assembly, caliper brackets, banjo bolts (shaving), and shock mount position all had to be modified to complete this upgrade.

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I wanted to re-post this on the blog so I have it for record:
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I figured I would post some early progress shots on my upgrade… for curious eyes. I’ll update this post more as my parts come in and I have more shots.

Shot of booster/MC through the access panel in the cab floor

New brake lines

MC and Proportioning Valve

Where the pedal extension will live

An overall look at the setup from behind

Not much to see here yet

Rotor setup

I am upgrading the following if your curious:
Brake lines and all hardware
Front brakes
Master Cylinder/Booster/Proportioning valve
Pedal assembly

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OK, so I am wrapping up my disc brake conversion and I figured I will post the rest of the shots I just took. Don’t mind the crappy NAPA brake line, I am swapping it for stainless in a month or two.

Shock mounted in new location with custom bracket

New Pedal height Don’t be fooled my clutch pedal is a little loosey…they are the same height

New dual master cylinder and booster, wish i could get better pics of the custom mount

Shot from below of the clutch arm, booster, and pedal assembly for brakes… tight fit.

Dead on shot of pedal and assembly…again tight fit. (tight fit is a theme for this upgrade)

Caliper and mounting bracket (again tight fit). I modified the steering arm and banjo bolt to fit with each other. Had to take some off of each, not a ton. We also modified the stock plate from speedway motos to add a bump stop on the bracket that hits the stock bump stop where the drums hit. This was to accommodate the shocks, even though they were moved they still hit without a stop.

Another shot of the caliper and bump stop on the mounting bracket.

A few things note. I used a 1/4 inch billet wheel spacer to make the calipers clear the stock rims (tight fit, surprised?). Also, the master cylinder *almost* fits perfectly under the stock floor cut out the way I have it. The pedal was reduced in size significantly. It’ll be great when I go disc in the back and this thing stops on a dime.

L-Line Owners Manual

Thanks to Buzzman72 over at OldIHC I now have a complete copy of the L-line Owners Manual for your consumption. These manuals cover 1950-1952 L-line series 110,111,112 International Truck.

Contents and Specifications Part 1 Operating Instructions Part 1 Part 2 Maintenance Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Lubrication Part 1 Ending Pages Part 1